French terry and brushed fleece are common choices for custom hoodies, sweatshirts and sweatpants. The key difference is the inside surface: French terry usually has visible loops, while brushed fleece has a raised, soft inner surface.
That difference influences feel and thermal comfort, but it does not decide the whole product. Fibre composition, fabric weight, knit construction and finishing also affect how a hoodie fits, wears and washes.
If your brand is developing a premium hoodie, start with the experience you want your customer to have. Then choose the material that supports it.
What Is French Terry Fabric?
French terry is a knitted fabric with a relatively smooth outer face and loops on the reverse. In hoodie development, it is often called loopback fabric.
The unbrushed loop structure gives the inside a different feel from fluffy fleece. Depending on its construction and weight, French terry can suit everyday sweatshirts, transitional layers and structured streetwear.
Do not assume that all loopback fabric is lightweight. A heavy, dense loopback can produce a substantial hoodie with a very different drape from a lighter quality.
What Is Brushed Fleece?
Brushed fleece has an inner surface that has been mechanically raised to create a softer, fuzzy texture. In this article, fleece refers to sweatshirt fabric with a brushed reverse, rather than every fabric sold as fleece.
The raised surface can trap air and provide a cosy feel. Brands often consider it for cooler-weather hoodies and sweatpants, but warmth depends on the complete fabric construction as well as brushing.
A cotton-rich fleece and a polyester-rich fleece are not interchangeable simply because both feel soft when new. Compare their surface, stretch, recovery and performance after care washing.
French Terry vs. Brushed Fleece: A Practical Comparison
| Feature | French terry / loopback | Brushed sweatshirt fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Inner surface | Visible loops | Raised, fuzzy surface |
| Initial feel | Textured loopback feel | Soft, cosy inner feel |
| Seasonal direction | Often considered for everyday or transitional layers | Often considered for cooler-weather comfort |
| Drape | Depends on weight, density and finishing | Depends on weight, density and finishing |
| Approval priorities | Loop quality, stability, hand-feel and fit | Brushing quality, shedding, pilling and fit |
Neither option is automatically more premium. A well-developed loopback hoodie can be excellent, and a heavily brushed fabric can still perform poorly if its underlying quality is unsuitable.
Why GSM Alone Cannot Choose Your Hoodie Fabric
GSM measures fabric mass per square metre. It helps describe weight, but it does not directly measure quality, thickness or warmth.
For example, two 350 GSM fabrics can differ in density, stretch and body. One may hold an oversized shape, while another collapses into a softer silhouette.
For a first development brief, define composition and construction alongside GSM. Our guide to GSM in fabric explains how to use weight as part of your specification.
As starting points for discussion, a cotton-rich brushed quality around 320–350 GSM may suit a familiar everyday hoodie, while a heavier loopback around 400–450 GSM may be worth exploring for a substantial streetwear silhouette. These are development examples, not universal rules. Approve physical swatches and a garment sample before deciding.
Choose the Rib with the Main Fabric
A heavyweight body with a thin, weak cuff can make a hoodie feel unbalanced. The neckline, cuffs and waistband need the right thickness, stretch and recovery for the design.
Ask to see the proposed rib next to the main fabric. Check whether it returns to shape after stretching and whether the shade matches your expectations. Composition and structure can make the rib look different even when the colour reference is the same.
For an oversized fit, rib tension also affects how the garment sits. A tight waistband can pull the body inward; a relaxed finish creates a different shape.
Approve Fabric in the Finished Garment
A soft swatch is useful, but it cannot show the whole hoodie. Review a sample with the intended fabric, rib, fit and decoration.
Check:
- Hood shape and weight when worn.
- Shoulder drop, sleeve volume and body drape.
- Cuff and waistband recovery.
- Measurements after the agreed wash and drying conditions.
- Surface fuzz, shedding or pilling after appropriate evaluation.
- Print or embroidery appearance on the actual material.
If the hoodie will receive garment washing or dyeing, assess the treated sample as well. For more on material approval, see our fabric-testing guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is French terry better than fleece for hoodies?
Neither is universally better. French terry suits brands that want a loopback interior; brushed fleece suits a softer, raised interior. The right choice depends on the intended feel, climate, fit and performance requirements.
Does higher GSM mean a better-quality hoodie?
No. Higher GSM means more fabric mass per unit area. Yarn quality, construction, finishing, sewing and performance still need to be evaluated.
Can both fabrics be used for matching sweatpants?
Yes, subject to the selected quality and design. Develop the top and bottom together so their colour, hand-feel and finishing remain coordinated.
Develop Your Custom Hoodie with NS Essentials
NS Essentials Tekstil supports private-label hoodie and sweatpant development in Istanbul, including fabric sourcing, sampling, branding and bulk production.
Send your reference images or tech pack with your target composition, GSM, colours and quantities. We can review suitable fabric options and clarify the next sampling steps.
Discuss your hoodie project at our contact page or email info@nstekstil.com.tr
